Coffee in Thailand

Coffee is alluring, intoxicating and is the drink of choice for millions. It’s one of the largest traded commodities in the world and plays a role in the lives of millions of people every day. There are two main species of coffee: coffea robusta and the Arabica bean. The robusta is low growing, fast producing, inexpensive and not very flavorful (used in canned or instant coffees). Arabica is grown at higher altitudes (1600m) or more. Cool evening temperatures slow the growth of the plant which allows complex sugars to develop. The Arabica bean is a hard, expensive bean and is prized by the specialty coffee industry. The coffee tree (an evergreen shrub) must grow for 5 years before it can produce on a yearly basis. This truly is a labour of love for the farmers.

It’s amazing how the coffee culture is full steam ahead in Asia and has been for quite some time. Ten years ago when we first arrived in Hong Kong, one was hard pressed to find a coffee shop. That’s all changed and even in remote areas of Asia you can find a branded coffee shop. So it comes as no surprise that Thailand has its fair share. The ubiquitous Starbucks opened its doors in Thailand in 1998 (last count in 2007 were 115 stores). Coffee in Thailand is popular with the locals so much so that there’s a movement for Hill Tribe people in Northern Thailand to grow their own coffee trees. The Hill Tribes of Northern Thailand are broken into two groups: lowland and highland. Those living in the lowland are farmers growing rice and corn whilst tribes that live in higher altitudes in the mountains have traditionally relied on poppy cultivation for the production of opium to survive. There’s an initiative from the government to support these farmers and help them to move away from this and into growing coffee beans.

A barista is a professional chef of coffee and is trained in the craft as well as customer service skills. A good barista has a passion for coffee and finds joy in preparing the perfect cup! Do you go into a coffee shop hoping to see if your favorite barista is there? If so, then it’s because that person is passionate about coffee and shares that knowledge and enthusiasm with the consumer. A good barista challenges themselves to become knowledgeable about where and how the coffee is grown, brewing, grinding and the equipment (i.e. when to change the grinding burrs or replace the pump).

There are 2 local coffee establishments in Bangkok that I enjoy getting a cappuccino or espresso macchiato from: DoiTung and Wawee Coffee. They support Hill Tribe coffee growers and I have to say they have the best coffee I’ve tasted thus far. Doi Chaang Coffee has a partnership with Canadian entrepreneurs based in Vancouver and Calgary which controls the roasting, distribution, and marketing of the coffee. How cool is that! Yay Canada!

The Culinary Chase’s Note: I was listening to CBC radio in Saint John, NB last month and they were interviewing the roast master from Java Moose. Java Moose roast their own beans so I am wondering if they buy from Doi Chaang or purchase some of their coffee from Thailand. The Aribica beans grown in Northern Thailand produce a lovely flavor of caramel with hints of spice which tend to linger on your tongue. To experience the true taste of an espresso, drink a small glass of carbonated water to first cleanse the palate. The golden crema is the first indication of quality and the taste should be balanced. And don’t wince at the price of a good cup of coffee! Arabica coffee growers hand pick the beans in places where vehicles or machines can’t go plus the beans ripen at different stages so a coffee picker may have to make many trips before all the beans are removed.